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Heat pumps should be serviced annually, at either the
beginning or end of the heating or cooling season. The
exterior compressor/condenser units should be kept clean and free of all
leaves and debris. They
should not be covered or otherwise boxed-in, which restricts the free flow
of air, thus reducing efficiency and possibly causing damage to the
compressor. Generally, the manufacturers recommendation is 2 inches clear all around and 5 inches
clear above the unit.
Oil-fired heating systems should be serviced or cleaned
annually to ensure that the barometric draft control is functioning
properly, that the nozzle is sized properly and clean. An overall burner and system check should also be performed for
efficient operation and functionality.
Gas heating systems require servicing every 2-3 years to
ensure they are burning efficiently and to remove rust deposits. Little
rust should be accumulating, even after 10 years. If more rust than
expected is present, there could be a draft problem or draft-related
inequities. The burner flame
should be a stable deep blue with a
somewhat greenish center; yellow/orange in the flame is an indication of
inefficient combustion, while a wavering flame is an indication of a
cracked heat exchanger introducing air and thus a waste of energy.
However, residential gas units will always have yellow/orange tips. It is
when the flame is yellow/orange or whitish that it needs adjustment.
Electric resistance furnaces and electric resistance
baseboard units require little maintenance. Resistance furnaces should be serviced periodically to ensure that
all of the heating coils are functioning and the fan motor is properly
lubricated. Baseboard units
should be vacuumed at least once a year to remove dirt and lint.
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Air conditioning systems should be serviced every year at
the beginning of the cooling season. The exterior compressor/condenser units should be kept clean and
free of all leaves and debris; they should never be covered or otherwise
boxed-in, and shrubs and hedges should be cut back. All of the above
restricts the free flow of air, which reduces the gas to liquid process
and efficiency of the system. In extreme cases, this may cause damage to
the compressor. Window units
should be removed during the heating system, because they allow an
excessive amount of heat loss when they are left in.
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Air filters on forced air systems, whether the filters are
electrostatic, reusable, or disposable, should be checked at least monthly
in the heating and cooling seasons and cleaned/replaced as necessary. A dirty filter will reduce efficiency tremendously and, in some
cases, (e.g. heat pumps and air conditioners) cause possible damage to the
unit (i.e. compressor).
All
duct joints on forced air systems should be tight and sealed with duct
tape. It is not unusual to
find poorly fitted joints in crawl spaces or attics, which permit
conditioned air to escape into these areas or draw in air from these
unconditioned areas.
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Ducts and pipes, which transport cool or hot air or water, should be
insulated. The insulation should be at least 2 inches thick and, if cool
air is being moved through the ducts, the insulation
should have a vapor
barrier on the outside because moisture only moves one way, from warm to
cold. All seams of the insulation should be sealed with duct tape. The
insulation used for wrapping ducts or pipes may be special duct wrapping
insulation or standard fiberglass batts/rolls. Ductwork in attic areas is
chronic conditioned air losers, even insulated ductwork. Ductwork is no
match for the relentless temperature extremes that you find in an attic,
even with adequate insulation.
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Installation
of a humidifier, preferably the evaporator type without a reservoir, on
the cold air return, will increase the relative humidity during the
heating season and thereby make it feel warmer, while not increasing the
temperature. Obviously, such
a recommendation is for the forced air systems, but stand-alone
humidifiers can be used regardless of the type system, although their
effectiveness is somewhat limited.
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Every 8% change in relative humidity (RH) changes the
comfort level of the air approximately 1 degree Fahrenheit (F). For
example, if in the winter you use a humidifier and you raise the RH in the
air 24%, you will be able to lower your thermostat 3 degrees. If you are
comfortable when the thermostat is at 70 degrees and the RH is 20%, you
will feel the same comfort level if you raise the RH to 44% and lower the
thermostat to 67 degrees.
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Humidifiers, regardless of type, require periodic
maintenance in accordance with the manufacturers instructions.
Reducing the temperature differential between the inside and
outside will reduce energy costs for heating and cooling. This is accomplished by changing the setting on the thermostat
(setting the thermostat at 68 degrees F instead of 72 degrees F) during
the winter.
Installation of a setback thermostat, which is a timer,
reduces the demand on the heating/cooling system when the house is vacant
for relatively long periods of time or at night, and reduces energy costs. If heat pumps are involved, a special, more expensive thermostat is
required that wires out the auxiliary heat strips. They have a manual
override for times that you demand heat.
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General
Windows and Doors Insulation
Water Heaters
Recommended Conservation Measures
Common Defects
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