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Good quality, tightly sealed windows and doors
greatly aid in the comfort enjoyed by the occupants of a structure and
likewise reduce the energy costs associated with that comfort.
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Insulating windows, double and triple glazed,
are very energy efficient if they are high quality and are well
maintained. The greater the
space between panes, the more efficiency they offer; 1/2 inch spacing
between panes is becoming the norm. When inspecting insulated glass
windows, look for signs of failed seals, (i.e. condensation stains that
may barely be visible and whitish stains that obscure visibility); if such
is noted, the entire window unit should be replaced to re-establish the
effectiveness and purpose of the window. Thermal pane windows lower heat
conduction by approximately 60% over single pane windows.
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Storm windows are recommended for installation over all
windows in the structure, including the basement. Storm windows are typically made of aluminum and can be made
for just about any size window. Storm windows should fit tightly and be
caulked/sealed, except for weep holes at the bottoms, which should be left
open to allow rainwater and condensation to drain. They also help to
reduce the amount of condensation that might develop, because the
temperatures on each side of the glass will be closer together. Obviously,
to serve their intended purpose, the sashes on storm windows should be
kept closed. Storm windows
over single pane windows can reduce heat loss by approximately 40%-60%.
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Windows should have good weatherstripping and the locking
mechanisms properly adjusted so that the sashes create a good seal with
each other and the frames. Many
types of weatherstripping are now available, but one of the easiest to use
is rope caulking applied around the inside of the sash and window stops. However, the windows cannot be raised or lowered unless the
caulking is removed. Wood and vinyl windows are reasonably weather-tight,
especially the better quality windows. Aluminum windows are typically
lower end, or inexpensive, and will be colder than wood or vinyl.
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Doors should be properly weatherstripped at the side jambs
and the head to prevent most of the air infiltration; a variety of
materials (e.g. spring, felts, foams and plastics) can be used and are
available at hardware and building supply stores. Doors should fit tightly
to the threshold. Installation
of a metal/vinyl threshold may be recommended. To be effective, the vinyl
insert should fit tightly against the bottom of the door when closed. Fiberglass insulation should be stuffed under the threshold to stop
air currents from entering the structure. An inexpensive alternative to a
new threshold may be the installation of a metal/vinyl sweep to the bottom
edge of the door.
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Installation of storm doors over all standard exterior doors
can reduce heat loss by approximately 40%-60%, when compared to a door
without storm doors. However, if the sun strikes on steel or aluminum
doors (entrance or storm) that have plastic trim, the heat may melt the
plastic. Installation of storm doors over large doors, such as sliding
doors leading to a deck, is expensive and may not be economically
justified. In such cases, use
of insulated draperies may be the wiser choice.
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Caulking around windows and doors should be checked at least
annually and maintained in good condition to reduce the amount of air that
may infiltrate the structure. Such
caulking will also prevent the entry of water, which may cause structural
damage.
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General
Heating and Air Conditioning Insulation
Water Heaters
Recommended Conservation Measures
Common Defects
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