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- 98% of all water in the basement problems are due to surface
water. Water that enters
the basement or crawlspace is directed toward the walls of the home by the surface grades.
The roof water management system, typically gutters and
downspouts, will contribute to
water intrusion if they are not installed or designed properly.
- The solution to these problems is to develop dense soil (clay)
grades that slope away from the walls of the house at a rate of 1/2" per foot or more
for at least 6' to 10'. Soft soils, such as topsoil, mulch and wood chips, do not shed
water and will not solve the problem. Soft soils should be installed after the dense soils
are in place and compacted.
- The remaining 2% of water in the basement problems are due to a high water table.
- The basements should not have been built with below grade areas. The solution involves
comprehensive pumping systems that are designed to constantly draw water away from the
home.
How can you tell if an attic has condensation problems, and to an exacting
degree?
- Assume that it is the middle of the summer, knowing
that there can be no condensation in an attic.
A simple knowledge of physics
is needed to easily understand this issue.
- The warmer the air, the greater ability it has to retain moisture.
- The colder the air, the less ability it has to retain moisture.
- During the summer months, an attic can get very warm. The warm air will eliminate the
formation of condensation.
- During the winter months, attics can get very cold, especially in colder climates.
Note: Homes in warmer southern states will usually not experience winter condensation.
- Clue # 1: Since roofing nails are usually galvanized steel and are in direct contact
with the exterior, and because their density will communicate the cold, the nails are the
first place where moisture vapors turn to liquid. Rust forming on the nails is your first
indication. This is very minor, and action is not necessary.
- Clue # 2: Since the nails are the first place where moisture forms, the wood sheathing
adjacent to the nails will absorb the water and dark stains will appear. This is still
minor, however, a recommendation to improve the ventilation is appropriate.
- Clue # 3: Depending on the amount of water that forms on the nails, stains may be
apparent on the flooring (or holes/erosions in the insulation if there is no flooring).
This would receive the same recommendation as clue #2.
- Clue # 4 – This is the first clue that will require action to reduce or eliminate
condensation. The roof sheathing closest to the eaves on the northerly side of the house
will start to form a light gray fungus/mold.
- Clue # 5 – The fungus will get darker and form at points higher on the northerly
side. This condition should be addressed as soon as possible.
- Clue # 6 – The fungus starts to form on the southerly side of the roof sheathing
and becomes even darker on the northerly side. This is a serious issue and the sheathing,
especially on the north side, will soon begin to delaminate.
- Clue # 7 – The sheathing becomes worse and worse
until most or all of the sheathing is black, wet and delaminated. When conditions are this
extreme, there is a good possibility that the sheathing will have to be replaced. This
will require the roofing to be replaced as well.
- Learn more about attics.
How can you recognize failures in ceramic tile in a
bathtub area that looks okay?
- The most vulnerable areas for the ceramic tile are at and around the
faucet and diverter handles, and at the sidewall, approximately 30"
from the front (faucet) wall close to the tub. Gently press on the tile
in these areas. If the ceramic tile moves, the wall behind the tile has
failed. The wall and tile will need replacement in the subject area.
Aesthetics and the opinion of the occupant will likely dictate whether a
repair is acceptable or replacement in the entire tub area is needed.
If you are a client and your question is not answered above,
click here to Ask the
Inspector.
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