Home Buyers Sellers Corporate Relocation Realtors Inspectors
 
 Order an Inspection
 
 Inspection Services
 
 Technical Library
  Glossary
  FAQ's
  House Facts
  Videos
  Advisory Reports
 
 About Us
  Corporate Profile
  Management Team
  Press Releases
 
 Local Service Areas
  Resource Center
 
 Join Our Team
 
 Contact Us
 
 Client Login
 
 Search
 
 Terms & Conditions
 
This site has been optimized for viewing with Internet Explorer version 4.0 and higher

Warm Air Heating Systems

(Return to Index)

 

Types of warm air heating systems:

  • Gravity
  • Forced Air

Gravity systems operate by air convection. Heated air expands, becomes lighter and rises. Cooler air is dense and falls. The difference in air temperature creates the convection or motivation for air movement.

The return of a gravity system must be unrestricted. Even a filter is too restrictive. This is necessary to develop positive convection and better distribution.

The furnace consists of a burner compartment (firebox) and a heat exchanger. The heat exchanger is the medium used to transfer heat from the flame to the air, which moves through the house. Besides being the medium of heat transfer, the heat exchanger keeps the burned fuels separate from the air.

Evaluating the heat exchanger in any warm air heating system is difficult, evaluation is even more difficult in a gravity system.

Inspect the cabinet or jacket for burned paint, distortions and/or scorch marks. Scorch marks may indicate that the firebox is not performing its designed function and heat is escaping. Such problems indicate that the flame is getting beyond the furnace firebox and may be creating fire safety, economic and functional problems.

Heat Exchangers -- Forced Air System


As mentioned with gravity warm air heating systems, the heat exchanger is the medium of heat transfer and separates the burned fuel from the air that moves through the house.

When a heat exchanger cracks or fails, there are two points to consider, involving air pressure. When cracks and rust, etc. are located at air pressure points, such as at turns and/or at the top of the heat exchanger (where the direction of the exhaust is not directed toward the flue), you may get combustion gases forced into the flow of the air in the plenum and ductwork.

The following evidences indicate positive pressure on a heat exchanger.

  1. In a gas-fired, forced air system, positive pressure may be visible when the fan comes on, because it may deflect the flame pattern. Look at the flame before the fan comes on to note the flame pattern. Look again, after the fan comes on, for changes in the pattern. To establish a benchmark, you may want to gently blow air across the burners before the fan comes on to get a sense as to the amount of deflection caused by small amounts of air. Generally, the amount of air needed to blow out a candle will turn the burner flame bright orange. This will help keep small or questionable flame patterns in perspective.

    A metal frame mirror with an extension handle and a good flashlight will improve visibility in the vertical heat exchanger tubes. It will not help at depressions, baffles, and at most welds, or with horizontal heat exchangers. Basing firm conclusions on observations with a mirror is cautioned. A careful visible inspection of the 10 to 40 per cent of the heat exchanger you can see should allow you to make a reasonable determination of the condition of the heat exchanger. If the plenum has an opening from a removed humidifier, you may want to consider removing it.

  2. Most of the gas-fired information noted above also applies to oil-fired heat exchangers, except for the flame pattern information. Air pressure on a unit with an oil burner will seldom, if ever, have a visible effect on the flame. 

There is evidence, which may be noticeable at times on these units. Lift or swing the burner view door open when the flame is on, but before the fan comes on. Assuming the chimney is drafting properly, note the draw from the view door and a relatively small amount of residual heat. After the fan comes on, open the view door again. If there is positive air pressure being exerted through a crack or failure in the heat exchanger, you may feel more than a small amount of residual heat as the air pressure is pushed into the heat exchanger and out of the view door.

Negative pressure in an oil or gas-fired heat exchanger poses a health and safety hazard. Air is drawn into the plenum and ductwork. Look for soot at the registers that are closest to the unit. Also try to evaluate whether the registers and the areas adjacent to the registers have been cleaned recently. This may suggest that someone is trying to hide a problem.

Smoke bombs, combustible gas detectors and sodium bicarbonate solutions used to determine the condition of a heat exchanger are suspect as best.

When using a smoke bomb, the heat exchanger must be brought up to temperature to allow for expansion of cracks. Access to the plenum or a portion of the ductwork is needed, and the flue should be blocked.

If you are concerned about the heat exchanger after evaluating it, contact the local utility company or a responsible HVAC contractor.

Blocked Chimneys Or Vent Connectors

Blocked or partially blocked vents or chimney flues pose health and safety problems, and are relatively simple to recognize.

With the heater on, a blocked or partially blocked flue will create excessive heat and moisture in the basement air, especially at the heater. When combustible gas exhaust backs into the basement from the flue, the humidity of the basement air is dramatically increased because the cooler basement air has less ability to hold moisture.

If you cannot operate the heater, you may still recognize present or previously blocked chimney problems. In a gas-fired unit, the area around the bonnet or draft hood will have evidence of rust. This is a result of hot (greater than 400 degrees) exhaust gases contacting the cooler metal around the bonnet or draft hood. You will not see the moisture because it evaporates quickly on the warm metal, however, the rust will be evident.

In an oil-fired unit, there may be excessive soot around the burner view door and around the barometric draft control. This is a major health, safety and operational defect.

Puffbacks

Caused by late or faulty ignition, such as a fouled nozzle or weak ignition arcing. Intermittent puffs of unburned fuel and combustion gases from the burner and combustion area back through the burner and any other open areas. Unburned fuel oil that is deposited in the combustion chamber is likely to ignite when the burner finally comes on. Adjustments and service usually resolves this problem.

Spillage

Caused when the flow of the combustion products and air in the chimney are reversed due to reduced air pressure. Causes could be whole house fans, exhaust fans, or other combustion appliances. This is similar to a partially blocked chimney, however, it is typically not as bad and it is usually intermittent.

The length of the vent pipe is critical. The longer the vent pipe is from the heater to the chimney, the more likely it is for heat to dissipate and develop condensation, which will cause corrosion and vent pipe failure. Ten feet is long; longer than 15 feet is not allowed; and the shorter the pipe is, the better it is. Long, horizontal vent pipes also cause condensation in the chimney. This may explain water coming down the chimney in many situations.

Horizontal vent pipes should always slope up from the heater to the chimney. Negative slopes may cause drafting problems, which could endanger the health of the occupants.

Check the draft by carefully touching the metal vent pipe. This pipe should be hot when the unit is operating properly. If the pipe is cool three feet to six feet from the heating appliance, there may be problems with drafting. Potential causes may include:

  1. Chimney not high enough;
  2. Draft obstructions at or adjacent to the chimney flue;
  3. Blocked or partially blocked chimney;
  4. Vent pipe pushed too far into chimney flue;
  5. Vent pipe too long; and
  6. Restricted air movement—two or more 90 degree turns.

Gas-fired systems have draft diverters to balance the exhaust draft. Oil-fired systems have barometric draft controls to balance the exhaust draft.

Lack of a barometric draft control on the vent of an oil-fired heating system may affect the operation of the burner because of possible restricted flow to the chimney. This restricted air, which causes some amount of backpressure to the burner compartment, may alter the flow of air through the burner that is needed for proper combustion of the fuel oil. The repercussion of this condition is usually an inefficient burner and fouled nozzles about one month after proper servicing of the burner.

If more than one heating appliance is using one flue, there are some general conditions that apply. Check local codes and safety requirements in your area.

  1. If two vent pipes are joined, they should be joined with a ‘wye’ and not a ‘tee’ coupling.
  2. If gas and oil-fired appliances are vented into the same flue, the oil-fired, or hotter appliance should be lower than the cooler gas appliance.
  3. The length of the vent pipes should be equal. There is a possibility that the longer pipe will have some spillage.
  4. The diameter of the collar at the appliance dictates the diameter of the vent pipe. As long as the combined areas of the appliance vents do not exceed the area of the flue(s) being used, the drafting should be acceptable.

Check the draft at each appliance when both appliances are operating and have had time to stabilize.

Limit Controls -- Warm Air Heating Systems

Limit controls typically have three settings—two lower settings turn the fan on and off and the high setting turns the burner off.

A typical cycle would be as follows:

  1. Thermostat calls for heat and causes the burner to come on.
  2. The fan does not come on until the temperature in the heat exchanger reaches the high fan setting. This is usually 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
  3. If the fan does not come on and the temperature in the plenum reaches the highest setting (usually about 200 degrees Fahrenheit), the burner will turn off. This situation would reflect a problem and should be reported.
  4. Assuming the thermostat was satisfied, the burner will turn off, but the fan will continue to run until the temperature in the heat exchanger drops to the lowest setting,which is usually about 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
  5. The cycle starts over on command from the thermostat.

The thermostat and limit controls generally operate at 24 volts.  This is a low voltage system.  A typical 120-volt circuit is run to a transformer and the voltage is changed from 120 to 24 volts.  These transformers can be found on the outside of the electric service panel or adjacent to the heater

One cubic foot of gas requires 10 cubic feet of air to burn. Technicians typically set up gas heating appliances at 13.5 to 15 cubic feet of air to ensure that there is enough air to provide complete combustion, or as complete as the appliance can provide.

Natural gas burns very complete; the typical amount of carbon monoxide in exhaust gases is less than 1/4 of 1%. Consider a typical gas range in a kitchen. If CO was a problem, ranges would be vented, just like water heaters and heating systems. The reasons that gas-heating appliances are vented are:
  1. Approximately 94% of the exhaust or waste is moisture, and heat is necessary to carry the water, in a vapor state, up to the chimney and out to the atmosphere.
  2. The size of the heating appliances, coupled with the amount of time a heater may be on in very cold weather, may allow the small amounts of CO and aldehydes to accumulate and possibly affect the health of the occupants.

The waste consists of water in a vapor state, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide and traces of aldehydes, such as formaldehyde.

Check for sources of combustion air—a louver or vent into the utility room; open ceiling that can draw air from the floor joist system, which may extend throughout the basement; or a louvered or permanently opened window to the exterior. If there are not adequate interior sources, outside air will be necessary. Logic is your best guide. The source must be permanent.

Inspection Checklist

Thermostat: Check heat, air conditioner and fan switch operation.
Examine exterior of cabinet: Rust, discoloration or burn spots.
Vent pipe: Corrosion, length, support, drafting and connections.
Estimate capacity and age: Not required by ASHI Standards.
Filter: Type, clean, brackets.
Ductwork: Open or ducted returns, supplies reduced and distributed properly.
Damper doors present/functional
Ductwork present in each room
Humidifier: Operational/clean
Limit control: Fan and burner.
Zone valves or circulators

Return to top


Heating Main   Hot Water Systems   Heat Pumps   Fuel Cost Comparison