Interior
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How do you solve any water in the basement problem?
- 98% of all water in the basement problems are due to surface water. Water that enters the basement or crawlspace is directed toward the walls of the home by the surface grades. The roof water management system, typically gutters and downspouts, will contribute to water intrusion if they are not installed or designed properly.
- The solution to these problems is to develop dense soil (clay) grades that slope away from the walls of the house at a rate of 1/2" per foot or more for at least 6' to 10'. Soft soils, such as topsoil, mulch and wood chips, do not shed water and will not solve the problem. Soft soils should be installed after the dense soils are in place and compacted.
- The remaining 2% of water in the basement problems are due to a high water table.
- The basements should not have been built with below grade areas. The solution involves comprehensive pumping systems that are designed to constantly draw water away from the home.
- How can you tell if an attic has condensation problems, and to an exacting degree?
- Assume that it is the middle of the summer, knowing that there can be no condensation in an attic. A simple knowledge of physics is needed to easily understand this issue.
- The warmer the air, the greater ability it has to retain moisture.
- The colder the air, the less ability it has to retain moisture.
- During the summer months, an attic can get very warm. The warm air will eliminate the formation of condensation.
- During the winter months, attics can get very cold, especially in colder climates. Note: Homes in warmer southern states will usually not experience winter condensation.
- Clue # 1: Since roofing nails are usually galvanized steel and are in direct contact with the exterior, and because their density will communicate the cold, the nails are the first place where moisture vapors turn to liquid. Rust forming on the nails is your first indication. This is very minor, and action is not necessary.
- Clue # 2: Since the nails are the first place where moisture forms, the wood sheathing adjacent to the nails will absorb the water and dark stains will appear. This is still minor, however, a recommendation to improve the ventilation is appropriate.
- Clue # 3: Depending on the amount of water that forms on the nails, stains may be apparent on the flooring (or holes/erosions in the insulation if there is no flooring). This would receive the same recommendation as clue #2.
- Clue # 4 – This is the first clue that will require action to reduce or eliminate condensation. The roof sheathing closest to the eaves on the northerly side of the house will start to form a light gray fungus/mold.
- Clue # 5 – The fungus will get darker and form at points higher on the northerly side. This condition should be addressed as soon as possible.
- Clue # 6 – The fungus starts to form on the southerly side of the roof sheathing and becomes even darker on the northerly side. This is a serious issue and the sheathing, especially on the north side, will soon begin to delaminate.
- Clue # 7 – The sheathing becomes worse and worse until most or all of the sheathing is black, wet and delaminated. When conditions are this extreme, there is a good possibility that the sheathing will have to be replaced. This will require the roofing to be replaced as well.
- Learn more about attics.
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How can you recognize failures in ceramic tile in a bathtub area that looks okay?
- The most vulnerable areas for the ceramic tile are at and around the faucet and diverter handles, and at the sidewall, approximately 30" from the front (faucet) wall close to the tub. Gently press on the tile in these areas. If the ceramic tile moves, the wall behind the tile has failed. The wall and tile will need replacement in the subject area. Aesthetics and the opinion of the occupant will likely dictate whether a repair is acceptable or replacement in the entire tub area is needed.
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