Grounds and Lots

If the general terrain around your home is inclined, is it a gentle, sloping incline or a steeply sloped incline, and in which direction does surface water flow? A primary point of concern is the possibility of surface water movement towards the house and eventual penetration into the below grade areas. If your land slopes downward from the street to the house, your house may encounter serious drainage problems. The surface water, if not properly diverted or controlled may accumulate around the foundation, or it may collect or pond on the lawn.

The following pages discuss key considerations in evaluating lots and grounds.

The actual soil conditions around the home are a major concern. Soil erosion, ponding water and grades that slope towards the house can lead to water in the basement or crawl space areas. The basic principal for preventing or minimizing erosion is to have the ground covered as much as possible with vegetation, such as grass, trees, shrubs, etc. As the homes are landscaped, the shrubs and trees are often intentionally planted very close to one another to produce an immediate, pleasing cosmetic effect.  In most cases, the plants are not placed with the future appearance in mind.  Consequently, as the shrubs and trees grow and fill out, they tend to crowd one another. They also tend to be too close to the house.

English Ivy makes a good ground cover, but on structural elements, its tendrils probe every opening. Often, you may find the ivy tendrils inside the basement area where they have found openings along the sills, windows, etc. and have grown through. Ivy that climbs a downspout or telephone wire can tear away the supports. Ivy that gets behind siding, shingles and clapboard can, as it gets thicker, force the material away from the structural components of the residence. Ivy produces claw-like anchors to support its own weight. The claws puncture the wood shingles and the paint layers on the clapboard and wood siding, leaving openings through which water can penetrate. The best way to remove them is to cut them off at the roots and wait 1 to 2 weeks for them to weaken and dry before pulling them off. Do not wait too long, because they will become too dry and fragile and you may find yourself removing them 1 inch at a time.

Dead trees are vulnerable to insect damage and decay, and they are a potential safety hazard when they fall, especially if they are located near the residence. In the fall and winter months, it is somewhat difficult to determine whether a tree is dead or has any dead branches. However, if you see limbs with bark peeling off, you can assume that these branches are dead and should be removed. Depending upon the size and location of the tree, its removal can be costly. A professional who is skilled and insured should perform this type of work. In addition to dead branches, all limbs that are overhanging or resting on a roof of the residence should be pruned back. These branches, especially in periods of high wind or when covered with snow, can damage the roofing surface.