Common Well Defects & Problems
- Water not potable. (1 ppm of coliform bacteria is not acceptable)
- Iron above acceptable levels
- Manganese above acceptable levels
- Copper above acceptable levels
- Nitrate and/or nitrites above acceptable levels
- Odor above acceptable levels
- Turbidity above acceptable levels
- Chlorine in well
- Distance between septic system improper (<100 ft.)
If the Water is Contaminated, Then What?
Well Contamination
Shock-Chlorinating
Sanitary water system components (well, pump, pipes, tanks and treatment equipment) are as essential to a hygienic drinking water supply as clean cooking and serving utensils are to wholesome food.
A properly designed well and water distribution system incorporates sanitary features that keep contamination from entering under normal operating conditions, but there are occasions when contaminants will get in. During well construction, or when pumps and other water system components are being installed, soil, grease's joint sealing compound and other foreign materials that carry bacteria, adhere to interior surfaces of the equipment. Furthermore, most water system repairs must usually be accomplished in trenches, well pits, or other locations where opportunities for contamination are numerous.
To combat disease-causing bacteria and viruses that remain in a water system following construction, repair, or maintenance, some means of disinfecting the interior surfaces is necessary. Shock chlorination is a convenient method for doing this through the use of a concentrated chlorine solution.
Shock chlorination is occasionally confused with the type of chlorination provided in public water systems, but the two processes differ substantially. Public water supply disinfection is accomplished with a continuous application of small amounts of chlorine. The major purpose is to disinfect the water itself, and water from community water supplies commonly contains less than 1 part-per-million (PPM) of chlorine. Shock chlorination of private water supplies, however, uses chlorine concentrations ranging from 50 to 200 PPM, and the primary purpose is to sanitize wells, piping, and other equipment that the water passes through rather than disinfect the water going through the system.
Shock chlorination in private water supplies is not a continuous process and it will not protect a defective well or plumbing system from continuous entry of contaminants. Only water systems that are protected against further contamination will benefit from shock chlorination. Poorly designed or deteriorated water system components that allow contamination to enter should be repaired or replaced, then shock chlorinated.
Control of nuisance organisms that can live in a water system is another use for shock chlorination. Iron bacteria, for example, are commonly found in water supply equipment. This type of bacteria is not known to cause disease, but it thrives in some iron-bearing waters and forms large amounts of rust-colored slime that clogs wells, pipelines, and water filters. Iron bacteria growth is extremely difficult to eliminate from a water system, but it can be controlled with periodic shock chlorination treatments.
Disinfecting
Only the surfaces that are contacted by the chlorine solution will be disinfected. The following recommendations will help to accomplish a thorough job.
o avoid adding more contaminants to the well during the disinfection procedure, clean up the work area around the top of the well. Remove grease, mineral deposits, and other encrustation from accessible parts of the well interior and scrub these surfaces with a solution of 1/2 Cup of laundry bleach in 5 gallons of water. Be sure to wash pumping equipment and piping with the chlorine solution as it is lowered into the well.
Newly constructed wells, or those that have been submerged by floodwaters, may contain substantial amounts of sediment that cloud the water and interfere with disinfection. Pump the well until the water clears before proceeding with shock chlorination.
Mix the required amount of dry compound with a small amount of water and stir thoroughly to dissolve. Let the undissolved calcium carbonate particles settle. Pour off the clear chlorine solution and use this to disinfect the well.
Place the required amount of chemical in a weighted cloth sack or in a section of perforated pipe that has been capped on both ends. Attach a rope and alternately raise and lower the chemical throughout the water-bearing portion of the well to dissolve the compound and distribute the disinfectant.
Pumping will help to mix the disinfectant with the water standing in the well. Use a garden hose to recirculate the strong chlorine solution directly back into the well. Direct the return flow onto the pump piping and interior portions of the well casing that are above the water level.
Open the faucets and hose bibs on each water line, one by one, and allow water to flow until a strong chlorine odor is detected. If a strong chlorine odor is not detectable, add more chlorine at the well. This will be necessary if the water contains substantial amounts of iron, hydrogen sulfide, or organic materials that deplete the chlorine in solution.
Drain water heaters and bleed the air from pressure tanks so that chlorinated water can completely fill and sanitize them.
It takes time for the chlorine to do a thorough job of disinfecting. Allow the chlorine to remain in the water system for at least 2 hours - longer, if possible.
Before using the water supply, thoroughly flush the remaining chlorine from the system.
Minimize the amount of chlorinated water that enters a septic tank by flushing the well, pressure tank, and other large volumes of disinfecting solution through outside hose bibs. The strongly chlorinated water may harm vegetation; dispose of it on ground where damage will be minimal. Pipes that serve indoor plumbing fixtures can be flushed after the well and pressure tank have been filled with fresh water.
Precautions
All concentrated chlorine solutions are corrosive, and care should be taken to avoid splashing them onto skin or into eyes. Rubber gloves, goggles, and protective aprons are recommended when handling chlorine solutions. Skin areas contacted by the disinfecting solution should be flushed immediately with clean water.
Never mix chlorine solutions with compounds containing acids or ammonia to improve their cleansing ability because toxic gases will form.
Both liquid and powdered chlorine sources lose strength with time. Exposure to heat, light, and moisture (if the compound is powdered) accelerates decomposition of the materials. Accordingly, buy fresh chemicals in small quantities to avoid storage losses. Always read and follow the manufacturer's recommendations for handling and storing powdered and liquid chlorine compounds.
Strongly chlorinated water may damage the elastic air-water separator or air bladder used in some pressure tanks. Check the manufacturer's recommendations if your pressure tank is equipped with this feature.
Retest
Follow-up testing for bacteria is an essential part of the shock chlorination procedure. Wait a few days after shock chlorinating before collecting the water sample. If bacteria are still entering the water system, it may take several days for detectable amounts to show up in a water sample.
Do not drink the water until results from the water test indicate the supply is safe. It's a good idea to retest a few weeks later to be sure that all points of entry for contamination have been blocked. Bacterial contamination is most likely to enter a well during wet weather when the water table is high and excess surface water seeps into the ground. A well that shows little or no signs of bacterial contamination during dry weather may be heavily contaminated during wet seasons.
If a water system continues to show bacterial contamination following shock chlorination, it may be necessary to hire a plumber or well driller to help locate and repair places where contamination enters.
What is a water softener?
What is a water softener?
The typical water softener is a mechanical appliance that's plumbed into your home's water supply system that helps eliminate minerals in the water that make it “hard”.
How does it work?
All water softeners use the same operating principle: They trade the minerals for something else, in most cases sodium. Water passing through the mineral tank loses positively charged calcium and magnesium ions to negatively charged plastic beads. The brine tank holds a salt solution that flushes the mineral tank, replacing calcium and magnesium ions with sodium. A meter at the top of the mineral tank regulates recharging cycles. The valve assembly routes water flow for each phase of the regeneration cycle.
What does it do?
Water comes from the ground. it picks up soluble bits of whatever it passes through. This basically means that the water contains minerals found in the earth. Of these, calcium and magnesium are of particular importance because they affect the water's ability to function in our homes. These minerals make our water hard.
One effect of hard water is that soaps and detergents lose some effectiveness. Instead of dissolving completely, soap combines with the minerals to form a coagulated soap curd. Because less soap is dissolved, more is required. And the sticky insoluble curd hangs around-it clings to the skin and may actually inhibit cleansing. Washed hair seems dull and lifeless and you still feel dirty after your bath or shower.
In the laundry, things aren't much better. The soap curd can work its way into your clothes as they're being washed in your automatic washing machine. This can keep dirt trapped in the fibers, and it can stiffen and roughen the fabric, as well as cause allergic reactions.
In addition to affecting the actual washing process, insoluble soap deposits leave spots on everything you wash-from your dishes to the family car-and a soap film will build up in your bath and shower.
Another reason to be concerned about hard water is its effect on your plumbing system. Calcium and magnesium deposits can build up in pipes, reducing flow to taps and appliances. In water heaters, these minerals generate a scale buildup that reduces the efficiency and life of the heater.
What does it look like and what are the parts?
Water softeners are usually comprised of two tanks, the mineral tank (full of small negatively-charged plastic beads) and the brine tank (full of salt crystals), and a control system that recharges or regenerates the system.
Recharging the system typically involves three phases; A backwash phase that removes dirt from the mineral tank. A recharging phase that recharges the mineral tank with sodium from the brine solution displaces calcium and magnesium, which is then washed down the drain. The final phase rinses the mineral tank with fresh water and loads the brine tank so it's ready for the next cycle.